The Subtle Signals of Style on HBO’s ‘Industry’
On HBO’s critically acclaimed series “Industry,” a character’s outward appearance, particularly their choice of outerwear, communicates volumes – often exceeding the information found on a traditional résumé. The show, lauded for its realistic depiction of the high-stakes world of investment banking in London, has captivated viewers and even resonated with professionals in the financial sector. Beyond the accurate portrayal of demanding work hours and specialized terminology, it’s the nuanced details of wardrobe, specifically the ubiquitous vest, that strike a chord with those familiar with the industry’s unspoken codes.
Decoding the Vest: Status and Affiliation
Bankers are known for their appreciation of quality garments, and the creators of “Industry” clearly understand this. Whether a practical fleece, a sophisticated padded design, or a subtly branded piece, the vests worn by the characters serve as visual cues to their position and background. Laura Smith, the show’s costume designer, explained to Business Insider that she delved deeper into “gilet styles” – the European term for vest – this season to further emphasize these distinctions. The choice isn’t merely aesthetic; it’s a deliberate statement about belonging and aspiration.
For those hailing from established wealth, like Henry Muck (Kit Harington) and his uncle Lord Norton (Andrew Havill), the vest embodies “quiet luxury.” This translates to timeless pieces built to last, rather than flashy displays of new money. Lord Norton, for example, is seen sporting a $320 vest from the luxury outdoor brand Schöffel while at Henry’s country estate, representing a classic, enduring style. This contrasts sharply with the vests favored by those navigating the competitive world of modern finance.
Hedge Fund vs. Investment Bank: A Wardrobe Divide
The show meticulously differentiates between the styles worn by individuals based on their firm and location. Kwabena (Toheeb Jimoh), a new hire at SternTao, and Kenny (Conor MacNeill), a former Pierpoint employee, each showcase vest styles reflective of their respective London neighborhoods. Smith highlights a deliberate distinction between the “hedge fund vest” and the “investment bank vest.” Kenny’s vest selection, in particular, serves as a visual callback to his previous role at Pierpoint, grounding him in the worlds of Bishopsgate and Canary Wharf – the areas where the series initially took place. Kwabena, meanwhile, wears a gilet specifically associated with private wealth firms in Mayfair.
Power Dressing and the Language of Accessories
Beyond the vests, the series utilizes other wardrobe elements to convey character dynamics and power imbalances. While characters like Whitney (Max Minghella) and Harper (My’hala) embrace the current “quiet luxury” trend, their approach differs from those with generational wealth. Whitney, striving to establish himself in both the banking and political arenas as part of his role at Tender, consciously avoids wearing branded company merchandise, only utilizing the company colors sparingly. This strategic choice reflects his ambition and desire to move seamlessly between different spheres of influence. Conversely, characters like Jonah (Kal Penn) readily embrace Tender merchandise, becoming a visible representative of the brand. Even the simple act of wearing a tie carries significance, often signaling a moment of vulnerability and a request for a crucial favor, as seen when Whitney asks Henry to become Tender’s CEO and Eric (Ken Leung) seeks capital for SternTao – both instances resulting in a positive outcome.
